[silverado4]

When I first put in my faucet about a year ago, my water pressure from it was great. Now The water comes out hard at first, then slows down. I checked all my lines in the house, nothing is frozen, they are all on the inside of the house, nothing against the outside wall. I live in Michigan, and it's cold now. That doesn't explain why it comes on fast at first, then slows down. It's just the kitchen faucet. Any ideas on what's wrong, or what I can do? Thanks

[Koot]

Originally Posted by silverado4

When I first put in my faucet about a year ago, my water pressure from it was great. Now The water comes out hard at first, then slows down. I checked all my lines in the house, nothing is frozen, they are all on the inside of the house, nothing against the outside wall. I live in Michigan, and it's cold now. That doesn't explain why it comes on fast at first, then slows down. It's just the kitchen faucet. Any ideas on what's wrong, or what I can do? Thanks

Check the strainer/screen to see if it has any debris in it that may be reducing the water flow. Also, newer faucets have a strainer that allows reduced gpm (gallons per minute) compared to older faucets, which are free-flowing. It is common for the newer reduced gpm faucets to have a strong initial stream (pressure) immediately when the faucet is first opened and then the water stream is reduced. FYI, the newer faucets have the gpm figure is on the strainer/clean housing (the part that can be unscrewed).

[silverado4]

I already took the strainer off, it is the same slow flow. I thought that was it also the pressure is still slow. Thanks, keep thinking. I felt the line next to it, it goes out to my sprinkler system which is shut off now, it is cool, but not cold. The shut off for that is about 8" away from the line to the upstairs kitchen faucet. What is funny is both hot and cold are slow, it's got to be in the faucet. I'm trying to think of how to "black flush" the faucet in case of debris in the main part of the faucet, like solder or something.

[JohnWill]

It sounds like an obstruction somewhere. Do you get a good flow if you disconnect the line from the faucet and stick it in a bucket and turn on the shutoff?

[silverado4]

Haven't don't that yet, I was talking to the wife about that earlier today. She has to get rid of all that junk under the sink. Maybe tomorrow.

[JohnWill]

Seems like an excellent excuse to clean out under there.

[hewee]

I would do as JohnWill because then can get in the line. Had water heater replace and when it was soldered so solder got lose in the line. It made it tru the shut off under the bath sink but it got stuck at the faucet value so had to take it all apart like you would to replace the washer or o-rings or what ever you have to replace if your faucet leaks.
So something could be stuck at any of the values and you would not see it looking at the filter.

[calador]

just out of the blue, i think it may be due to the pressure unit. I know some houses fit in pressure unit to get loads of water out of their faucets. It may be that its cranky and tries to push a lot of water out for a while then regulates it back to its intended pressure.

[hewee]

Water pressure here goes down all the time but that is at all faucets. But that is because we have a well and the pressure drops so far before it turns the pump back on to pump up more water to the tank. Could make it better but then the pump would run more and that cost.

[lotuseclat79]

Hi silverado,

First run John Will's suggested test. That should tell you something.

Then, turn on all of the faucets in the house at once, and determine if they all flow at the same perceived rate or you just have trouble with the kitchen faucet.

I would check the water service from the town into your house. First question to ask is how old is your house and are the water pipes into the basement iron. If you house is over 40 years old like mine was, and the town delivers water from the main on your street to your property in iron pipes there are two things that may be at work affecting your water pressure.

First, is the problem water pressure or water volume. The second is whether your property's water line from the town's delivery point into your house is iron or plastic, and then whether the town's line from the main to your property is iron or plastic. The owner is responsible for water line from the town's delivery point on the property from the main to the house. The town is responsible for the water line from the main to the delivery point on the property.

A water volume problem occurs when the town delivers only a trickle to your property due to the iron pipes rusting out from the inside that reduces the inside diameter of the pipe and consequently drastically reduces the flow of water (rusty) to your house. One thing you may be able to do which I did after I had my property's water pipes changed to plastic was to get the town to run a volume/pressure check at the output of the new plastic pipes in my basement - the results verified that the town's water volume was not as it should be and got me on the list of properties that the town had to pull out the iron pipes from the main and replace them with plastic pipes to my property's delivery point. This greatly increased the volume and consequently restored the water pressure to my house.

I can now turn on all of the faucets in my house at the same time and there is no visible difference in the flow from any. A water pressure check revealed that my house had about 38 lb/sq. inch after all was said and done. Since I live on a cul-de-sac which is at the bottom of a hill, the town is going to put in a pump for our street which should increase the pressure. The town's water tank is on a hill nearby, but gravity flow is all we get downhill from about a 1/2 mile away. The street next to us which is another hill has a pump.

Over the course of a year, in your case, there may be something happening with your water pipes internal to the house. I would call a plummer if you fail to find out any new information on whether or where there might be an obstruction in your system, and have them run a flow check or some similar kind of test on your entire house's plumbing system.

After you turned off your sprinkler line, I hope you drained the rest of the line by opening or turning on your sprinkler until the entire line was drained.

-- Tom

[silverado4]

I did all of the above, only the kitchen had the lower pressure. It didn't have it before last year. I finally found the spec sheet for the faucet. It has a "diverter" in the main valve from the hot, cold, and sprayer to the spout. I think it is in there. Can I get to the diverter from the top?

[silverado4]

Here is my faucet diagram,
Silverado

[lotuseclat79]

Hi silverado,

If you think the diverter is the problem - and if it proves to be - what's your plan, i.e. how will you be able to check it out and tell? Would it be to get a replacement kit for your model of the faucet works inside? I would guess that plumming supply houses nearby would carry them.

I follow your reasoning about a piece of solder or something becoming stuck inside somewhere that affects the flow of both the hot and cold water, but I don't know if it would be due to the diverter rather than the large piece directly below it. That is why you may need to remove what you can and take the works down to a plumming supply house, explain the problem, and ask what kits they have for your faucet model. Ask them if they have ever heard of this kind of problem and what is usually found to be the cause of it.

That would be the fall back plan unless you can as you say - black flush whatever may be stuck out of the faucet works inside.

Good luck and keep us posted,

-- Tom

[hewee]

I would unhook the line from the new faucet where it hooks up under the sing and then have a coffee can under it and then turn it on to see if it is ok at each cold and hot shutoff.
If all checks out ok them you know it is some where in the faucet.
I see you have both a hot and cold knob so is the water pressure slow on each?

[silverado4]

Here is my plan:
I'm going to remove the diverter today, 3/20, and turn on the water on the hot and cold slowly, to let some water come out the faucet with the spout off. This I hope will clean out what ever is in there, if there is anything in there. Then I'm going down to either home depot, or Lowes, and get a replacement diverter and put it in. What I think is happening, is the diverter may be "half way up" sending water to both the sprayer and spout at the same time. The diverter is supposed to close when the sprayer is used, then open when the sprayer is not used to re-direct the water. I think that's how it works. I'll let you know what happens. Since I'll have the spout off, I might as well replace the diverter, per the internet, they say to just clean it with a tooth brush, but for a few bucks, it's not worth putting it back on.
Talk to you later.
Yes, the water pressure is slow on the hot and cold, that's why I think it's the diverter.