[xgerryx]

If anyone is interested in a new thread (re; #27) to do a radial face cut either with a spindle moulder or for smaller jobs using a table router sing out.

Woodwork, even after 35+ years is still a hell of a lot of fun.

[JohnWill]

Nothing stopping you from starting a new thread if you have something to discuss. I'm not in the league with many folks here in woodworking, but I'm always interested.

[PCcruncher]

Originally Posted by xgerryx

If anyone is interested in a new thread (re; #27) to do a radial face cut either with a spindle moulder or for smaller jobs using a table router sing out.

Woodwork, even after 35+ years is still a hell of a lot of fun.

It is fun!
Sure Gerry, if you have time

Guyzer, I enjoyed the shots of the spindle shaper! I love wood working, and had the experience of working in a small cabinet shop for a couple of months. I learned a lot, and enjoyed learning how to use the tools I hadn't had access to before (Spindle shaper and the 3 spindle shaper we used for door rails & stiles.)
Last winter we added on to our house a large addition which includes a 20' x 27' shop for wood working It isn't fully finished, so we haven't moved any tools in yet, But hopefully this winter we can get it going.

[Knotbored]

II would like to see how using tool of all types ('specially the ones I can't afford in a home shop) work.
Before electrical tools were available furnature makers made amazing molded edhes using rabit planes- a blade set in a simple wood holding fixture. I can almost visualize how a single blade secured to a sturdy compas could be used to make the circular window moulding by gradually scraping away the surface.

[buck52]

I think it would be great to have a woodworking thread to show your work and share ideas

I am an avivd woodworker/turner that has built and sold many pieces as well asall my own cabinets and furniture

[iltos]

Originally Posted by JohnWill

Like I said, I think I'll reuse the old ones.

that'd be the way to go, john

if that pic is representative, they're in good shape...not worth the time or the money to try and duplicate them

if you're changing the profile throughout the room, there a lots of alternative available, tho....much of it depends on how much of purist you are....the easiest to deal with are synthetic

[JohnWill]

I just had one window where the trim basically sucked. It was all different shades, and the upper and lower trim didn't meet cleanly. The cross piece was also pretty ugly and plain. I wish I'd have taken a "before" picture.

I added the medallions, and the cross piece, and replaced everything but the circular trim.

[Guyzer]

Darn nice job John. Except for that one finishing nail head sticking out. Just kidding...

[JohnWill]

Thanks.

Well, it looks a whole lot better than what was there. My wife has been after me for several years to upgrade it. I finally decided it was time to get it done.

I would have liked to replace the other trim, but it wasn't going to happen. It's not quite the same shade as the rest when the smoke settled, but it's close enough. Of course it's pretty hard to get a bunch of different pieces of wood to take the stain all the same, even if they're all new.

[iltos]

Originally Posted by JohnWill

Thanks.

Well, it looks a whole lot better than what was there. My wife has been after me for several years to upgrade it. I finally decided it was time to get it done.

I would have liked to replace the other trim, but it wasn't going to happen. It's not quite the same shade as the rest when the smoke settled, but it's close enough. Of course it's pretty hard to get a bunch of different pieces of wood to take the stain all the same, even if they're all new.

you'll be the only one who notices, john, unless someone climbs up on that counter and spends the time it took you to do it, just staring at it ....

it looks great

[hewee]

Sanding sealer helps out too.

Applying a Sanding Sealer Tutorial

[JohnWill]

I use Minwax products, and I used the pre-stain prep as they recommend. Once the stain is on, the clear varnish doesn't really change the color after that.

[hewee]

Good to hear John.

I think oil base products are also better. Even more so if your working where it's hot because you have so much more drying time.
I did a desk for my mom but it was all water base stain and varnish and I hated it. The stain was not to bad but the varnish dried to fast. Yes it was hot but still it dried way to fast and you had brush marks. If I did it with a oil base I would had a glass finish with no brush marks.
Plus if you go gloss the finish is harder with the oil base. If you do not like the gloss then put it on and steel wool it to give it a semi-gloss look and then add a semi-gloss or what ever on top of that.
Your have the good hard finish on it under it to help protect things.

[JohnWill]

Actually, it just takes a few hours for the stain to be ready, I normally give it overnight. I normally do trim like this with the satin finish, I don't like a hi-gloss finish on this stuff. For stain and clear finishes, I always use oil based products.

I put the prestain treatment, the stain and the first coats of finish on with disposable sponge brushes, makes the cleanup very easy. For the final finish coat, I break down and use a real brush to get the good finish.

[hewee]

I know hi-gloss is to much but it is a harder finish. You can then steel wool it to take down the hi-gloss finish look and add another coat of satin finish. The satin finish is not as hard but you got the hard hi-gloss under it.
But where you got the trim it is not like a door way that your run into and hit so no big deal on getting a hard finish.

I have used the disposable sponge brushes but also love a rag where you can rub the stain in. I have even used steel wool to rub in stain. Well a stain with a finish all together in one that can be hand rub you can get a nice shine on it with the steel wool.