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Solved: battery charger to amp?

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28-Jun-2009, 02:42 PM #1
Solved: battery charger to amp?
yep I'm trying to hook up my car stereo in my house ,i got a 980 watt KOLE audio and 2 12'' that i wish to run off of this battery charger. I never owned one of these before and im confused with the settings on this charger and what settings i should have if i were to do this.

The charger has a 3 stetting switch 2amp/10amp/50amp start

2nd switch says 2/10/50 select on the left side maintainer charge

large dial with 12hr timer with a hold option

AMP Mosfet Bridgeable, Crossover HPF/LPF, Bass Boost, 2ohm Stable
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28-Jun-2009, 04:34 PM #2
Since a 980 watt amplifier could easily draw more than even the 50A starting current for that charger, I suggest you rethink this idea.

I'd use a car battery and hook the charger and the amp to the battery, That way the charger can keep the battery topped off, and the amplifier will have the peak current it might demand available.
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28-Jun-2009, 05:39 PM #3
Keep in mind that a charger does not have filtered or steady current. It is not intended to be a power supply for electronics, and it is possible that it could end up damaging the equipment. You may even get a lot of static or the "60 Hz hum".

But I would try your charger at the lowest amperage setting and see if it runs the amp. When I have done this sort of thing in the past, I have used the 10-amp setting.
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28-Jun-2009, 07:38 PM #4
I agree with JohnWill. Use the charger with a car battery connected. Most car battery chargers are only half wave rectified not full wave, so the current coming out of it is "dirty" and needs to be filtered. You would be better off using a power supply/converter for a camper. the newer styles are switching power supplies and can deliver clean power and are available in many amperage ratings. These can also be used with a battery to help stabilize the voltage when there is a peak demand.
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28-Jun-2009, 07:49 PM #5
Well, the idea of the battery is it's a huge "capacitor" in this case, and would provide clean power to the amp. I sure wouldn't connect the charger directly for any of the reasons stated here.
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28-Jun-2009, 08:05 PM #6
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnWill View Post
Well, the idea of the battery is it's a huge "capacitor" in this case, and would provide clean power to the amp. I sure wouldn't connect the charger directly for any of the reasons stated here.
Yes, I agree that connecting the battery is a great idea if possible. It will definitely help stabilize the output.
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29-Jun-2009, 05:33 AM #7
So if i connect a battery with the charger would that cancel out the dirty power issue?

Wouldn't i need one or the other running ,i don't see how they can supply power at the same time to one unit?

I also read about the computer power supply but the one's i tried to convert have weird colors and i broke my meter.
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29-Jun-2009, 08:52 AM #8
The battery in parallel with the charger will work fine. This is exactly how every car that's driving down the road operates, and they have no problem supplying power to all the electrical equipment in the car.

As far as the computer power supply, there are many diagrams, no need for a meter here. Here's the pinouts for a 20 and 24 pin ATX P/S output: http://www.powerstream.com/itx-atx-pinout.htm
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29-Jun-2009, 09:43 AM #9
A typical computer power supply would probably have difficulty operating a 980 watt amplifier anywhere near full power. Even if you got a 1000 watt PC supply, the +12 VDC output would not be rated for the full 1000 watts.
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29-Jun-2009, 10:14 AM #10
You don't think this would work?
http://www.powerstream.com/12-volt.htm

It is designed to use in showrooms it says. If not this one there has to be somebody that makes something. Go to the nearest place that has a showroom and see what they are using.

Not cheap though
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29-Jun-2009, 12:16 PM #11
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnWill View Post
The battery in parallel with the charger will work fine. This is exactly how every car that's driving down the road operates, and they have no problem supplying power to all the electrical equipment in the car.

As far as the computer power supply, there are many diagrams, no need for a meter here. Here's the pinouts for a 20 and 24 pin ATX P/S output: http://www.powerstream.com/itx-atx-pinout.htm
I think i will play it safe and use a battery.

As for the computer power supply's ,iv had difficulty's in the past with those the reason why is i never had a ATX iv always had to play with some off the wall brand ,never had any on and off switches ,wires always off color and never found any detailed information with google. I was interested in making a small hydrogen torch powered by one of these supplys but my 2 current power supply's were just to difficult to work with without a good meter.
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