 | Senior Member with 343 posts. | | Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Chicago Experience: always learning | | Solved: battery charger to amp? yep I'm trying to hook up my car stereo in my house ,i got a 980 watt KOLE audio and 2 12'' that i wish to run off of this battery charger. I never owned one of these before and im confused with the settings on this charger and what settings i should have if i were to do this.
The charger has a 3 stetting switch 2amp/10amp/50amp start
2nd switch says 2/10/50 select on the left side maintainer charge
large dial with 12hr timer with a hold option
AMP Mosfet Bridgeable, Crossover HPF/LPF, Bass Boost, 2ohm Stable | | Moderator with 96,644 posts. | | Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: South Eastern PA, USA Experience: Advanced age & experience | | Since a 980 watt amplifier could easily draw more than even the 50A starting current for that charger, I suggest you rethink this idea.
I'd use a car battery and hook the charger and the amp to the battery, That way the charger can keep the battery topped off, and the amplifier will have the peak current it might demand available.
__________________ Remember: Data you don't have at least two copies of is data you don't care about. Microsoft MVP - User Desktop Experience | | Moderator with 36,830 posts. | | Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Vermont | | Keep in mind that a charger does not have filtered or steady current. It is not intended to be a power supply for electronics, and it is possible that it could end up damaging the equipment. You may even get a lot of static or the "60 Hz hum".
But I would try your charger at the lowest amperage setting and see if it runs the amp. When I have done this sort of thing in the past, I have used the 10-amp setting.
__________________ Microsoft MVP
Windows Shell/User | | Senior Member with 534 posts. | | Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: MA Experience: Intermediate | | I agree with JohnWill. Use the charger with a car battery connected. Most car battery chargers are only half wave rectified not full wave, so the current coming out of it is "dirty" and needs to be filtered. You would be better off using a power supply/converter for a camper. the newer styles are switching power supplies and can deliver clean power and are available in many amperage ratings. These can also be used with a battery to help stabilize the voltage when there is a peak demand. | | Moderator with 96,644 posts. | | Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: South Eastern PA, USA Experience: Advanced age & experience | | Well, the idea of the battery is it's a huge "capacitor" in this case, and would provide clean power to the amp. I sure wouldn't connect the charger directly for any of the reasons stated here. | | Moderator with 36,830 posts. | | Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Vermont | | Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnWill Well, the idea of the battery is it's a huge "capacitor" in this case, and would provide clean power to the amp. I sure wouldn't connect the charger directly for any of the reasons stated here.  | Yes, I agree that connecting the battery is a great idea if possible. It will definitely help stabilize the output. | | Senior Member with 343 posts. | | Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Chicago Experience: always learning | | So if i connect a battery with the charger would that cancel out the dirty power issue?
Wouldn't i need one or the other running ,i don't see how they can supply power at the same time to one unit?
I also read about the computer power supply but the one's i tried to convert have weird colors and i broke my meter. | | Moderator with 96,644 posts. | | Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: South Eastern PA, USA Experience: Advanced age & experience | | The battery in parallel with the charger will work fine. This is exactly how every car that's driving down the road operates, and they have no problem supplying power to all the electrical equipment in the car.
As far as the computer power supply, there are many diagrams, no need for a meter here. Here's the pinouts for a 20 and 24 pin ATX P/S output: http://www.powerstream.com/itx-atx-pinout.htm
__________________ Remember: Data you don't have at least two copies of is data you don't care about. Microsoft MVP - User Desktop Experience | | Distinguished Member with 17,047 posts. | | Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: McHenry, IL - USA Experience: Enough to be dangerous | | A typical computer power supply would probably have difficulty operating a 980 watt amplifier anywhere near full power. Even if you got a 1000 watt PC supply, the +12 VDC output would not be rated for the full 1000 watts. | | Distinguished Member with 24,712 posts. | | Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: You will never know Experience: Depends on the definition |
29-Jun-2009, 10:14 AM
#10 | You don't think this would work? http://www.powerstream.com/12-volt.htm
It is designed to use in showrooms it says. If not this one there has to be somebody that makes something. Go to the nearest place that has a showroom and see what they are using.
Not cheap though
. | | Senior Member with 343 posts. | | Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Chicago Experience: always learning |
29-Jun-2009, 12:16 PM
#11 | Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnWill The battery in parallel with the charger will work fine. This is exactly how every car that's driving down the road operates, and they have no problem supplying power to all the electrical equipment in the car.
As far as the computer power supply, there are many diagrams, no need for a meter here. Here's the pinouts for a 20 and 24 pin ATX P/S output: http://www.powerstream.com/itx-atx-pinout.htm | I think i will play it safe and use a battery.
As for the computer power supply's ,iv had difficulty's in the past with those the reason why is i never had a ATX iv always had to play with some off the wall brand ,never had any on and off switches ,wires always off color and never found any detailed information with google. I was interested in making a small hydrogen torch powered by one of these supplys but my 2 current power supply's were just to difficult to work with without a good meter. |  THIS THREAD HAS EXPIRED.
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