I jumpered the sata connection going into my drives because the ''roofs'' of the connectors broke off due to such a thin hard plastic I don't know how anyone thought that was gonna last but they don't slide in or stay put and i can't fix it. The only spare connector I had handy was the 4 wire deal so I jumpered it as usual matching yellows, reds and blacks except for the orange 3 volt, just left it hanging. The drives start up and i can even read off them in Killdisk running a live CD but whenever I try to run a delete pass on the HDD it just freezes and I'm forced to hard reset. I don't know if that CD drive needs that extra 3 volts or if it doesn't like the way I bundled up all the grounds going into it but the drive is not stable as far a usability. It boots but if I click an option too fast or try to run something it's hard reset all over again.
I had the same problem as you did. My HDD sata power cable broke and did not make a good connection into my HDD. I had to buy an extension cable and forced it tight with a nylon cable tie and that did the trick for me. Luckily my computer had extra connections so I had a few extras to use too.
Well now my cable has 6 connections... 1 floppy, 1 legacy sata 4 pin and 4, 4 wire molex sata. I read that drives manufactured in ''compatibility'' shouldn't matter if that 3 volt is connected or not. It used to boot my old laptop drive but doesn't after I cut out the 5 wire and i can understand that because i think that uses 3 volt but my large stationary desktop drive I can't understand why that isn't booting or allowing my live CD to edit it. I can read the sectors on live CD but it wont let me edit it. I'm wondering if my psu/bias setting might be shotty.
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