BSOD Mostly when playing a game

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lepz

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First off, I also posted this on the Hardware forum as I'm not really sure which category it fits more. It is probably a hardware issue but the bsod's could be read from someone who is familiar with diagnosing them.

I recently built my system, and it's been pretty rough ever since. Often, when I start up a game, it decides to crash my whole system resulting in a blue screen. Do note, however, that it has also crashed when not in a game, but only once or twice.

My first thought was the ram, as it was and is giving a lot of memory errors, so I ran memtest for over 10 hours with no failures. My next thought was the CPU, so I ran prime 95 on blend and small ftt tests for over 8 hours which also proved to be stable. Next was the HDD, and I did everything from examining the SMART info to a long generic test. GPU was my last hope, but Furmark doesn't phase the card, and I even ran MemtestG80 which supposedly tests the GPUs memory as well. I do realize these tests are not the end all, and there could be a problem with any one of them that the tests didn't find. I have also reinstalled Windows

Something curious happened when I ran memtest the other day. I had one stick in and left the room for a few minutes, only to come back to 7k+ errors. This was it I thought, I finally found out what was causing it. I wanted to test it again to make sure it wasn't a bug in the software, but it ran for 8 hours with no errors. So I'm lead to believe it's the ram, motherboard, memory cache, or psu. I am leaning away from the psu based on the fact that I get lucky and am able to play Skyrim on Ultra with no issue.

I have attached several recent minidumps for anyone who is able to understand such things.

If there is anything I can clarify or test, just let me know. I will be forever gracious if someone could help me with this, because it's not fun building a nice system only to have it work half the time.

Thanks in advance.

EDIT: My computer specs are in my profile.
 

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A quick look at the minidumps shows a selection of errors which point more towards a memory fault than anything else. Memtest software is good at finding most faults but can and does miss minor ones. The best way to test the RAM is to run the PC on one stick at a time to see if any particular stick causes errors. This will slow the system down a bit and some games will not function.

Please state what motherboard you have and the number of RAM sticks you are using, also include the sticks size, make and model number (it should all be written on a label on the sticks).
 

lepz

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A quick look at the minidumps shows a selection of errors which most of the time would indicate a memory fault. Memtest software is good at finding most faults but can and does miss minor ones. The best way to test the RAM is to run the PC on one stick at a time to see if any particular stick causes errors. This will slow the system down a bit and some games will not function.

Please state what motherboard you have and the number of RAM sticks you are using, also include the sticks size, make and model number (it should all be written on a label on the sticks).
So I should be running on one stick and attempting to play some games right? As it doesn't crash outside of a game often. I did try that before, but not for more than maybe 10 minutes. I'll give it a shot again with a variety of operations on the computer.

I have a Gigabyte z68a-d3h-b3 motherboard, and my ram is 2x2gb g.skill ripjaws 1600mhz model F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL
 
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So I should be running on one stick and attempting to play some games right?
Correct :)(y).

I checked in the motherboard RAM compatability list and only the same model number with 8GBRL on the end is listed not the 4GBRL. I doubt that is much to worry about as the RAM timings are the same it just means that the 4GBRL has not been tested with that motherboard.

Please check in the Bios that the RAM timings are set to 9-9-9-24 and the voltage is at 1.5V.
 

lepz

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Correct :)(y).

I checked in the motherboard RAM compatability list and only the same model number with 8GBRL on the end is listed not the 4GBRL. I doubt that is much to worry about as the RAM timings are the same it just means that the 4GBRL has not been tested with that motherboard.

Please check in the Bios that the RAM timings are set to 9-9-9-24 and the voltage is at 1.5V.
Alright, first stick crashed after a few minutes of gaming. I've been playing on the second stick for over 2 hours with no crash. the only thing I've noticed is it seems laggier than the card that crashed.

I did check in the bios to make sure everything was what it was supposed to, and sure enough the timing and voltage is set at the correct values.

EDIT: I am posting this picture because I am not knowledged enough to know what this stuff means. All I know is it's saying the part number is 2GBRL, the max bandwidth is 667mhz and none of the tRAS values are 24.
 
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If the settings in the Bios are correct, that is all you need to worry about. What software did you get that screenshot from as that is showing the wrong model of stick so obviously not very accurate.

As you got a crash with the first stick keep using the other one for a while, if it is ok then I think you can be fairly confident the other stick is faulty. Make sure you are running them in the correct slot for single stick operation, the motherboard manual should tell you which one to use.
 

lepz

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If the settings in the Bios are correct, that is all you need to worry about. What software did you get that screenshot from as that is showing the wrong model of stick so obviously not very accurate.

As you got a crash with the first stick keep using the other one for a while, if it is ok then I think you can be fairly confident the other stick is faulty. Make sure you are running them in the correct slot for single stick operation, the motherboard manual should tell you which one to use.
I used cpu-z, but like you said, I'm almost certain it's the program reading it wrong.

The motherboard manual only notes dual-channel but I'm willing to bet it's supposed to be in slot 0. I'll keep using the one that works so far and let you know what happens.

Thanks!
 
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Slot 0 is the norm.

CPU-Z i've certainly heard of but never used so I'm not familiar with it. It shows more than one timing read out and I have no idea what that is supposed to represent.

Sounds good so far with the second stick and the lag is bound to occur as you are running on reduced RAM capacity, probably below what the game requires. Might be worth swapping the sticks again just to see if it still crashes with the first one just to prove the point. After that I think you can be confident that the faulting stick is in need of being replaced.

I know there is a lifetime guarantee on Kingston and some other makes so you might be able to get it replaced free of charge.
 

lepz

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Joined
May 13, 2011
Messages
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Slot 0 is the norm.

CPU-Z i've certainly heard of but never used so I'm not familiar with it. It shows more than one timing read out and I have no idea what that is supposed to represent.

Sounds good so far with the second stick and the lag is bound to occur as you are running on reduced RAM capacity, probably below what the game requires. Might be worth swapping the sticks again just to see if it still crashes with the first one just to prove the point. After that I think you can be confident that the faulting stick is in need of being replaced.

I know there is a lifetime guarantee on Kingston and some other makes so you might be able to get it replaced free of charge.
Yea, I'm not sure what all those different columns are supposed to mean either.

I swapped the sticks again to the "non-working" one, and it crashed, but with no apparent stop code. So I went and looked at what the code means and it says [FONT=Segoe UI, Arial]DRIVER_VERIFIER_DETECTED_VIOLATION which is odd because verifier is not enabled and I confirmed that. I attached the dmp just in case you had any questions. I'm still hoping the ram is so screwy it's reporting any error it can, and the problem doesn't lie elsewhere.

I can return it to Newegg but of course I have to pay shipping. Nonetheless, it's more worth it to pay shipping than have failing ram. I do, however, wish I would have waited, as the 8GBRL is on sale for $40 :(.

Thanks again!
[/FONT]
 

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Getting a crash soon after putting the suspect stick back in does confirm the stick is faulty. Bad RAM does tend to give very misleading minidumps which explains the Driver Verifier error.

A replacement Ram stick and your problems should be over.
 
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