Buldging capcitor? Warning!!! The previous performance of overclocking has failed

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SnowboardRage

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Hi,
My computer has run well for years but now out of the blue every time I start my PC from a cold boot I have to press the power button a few times until it POSTs and I get the message "Warning!!! The previous performance of overclocking has failed."
I googled the issue and found this thread:
http://forums.techguy.org/hardware/775804-warning-previous-performance-overclocking-failed.html
crjdriver said to check the motherboard for bulging capacitors. Is it just me or does the lower capacitor in this picture look like it's bad? The rest of the capacitors on my motherboard look more like the upper capacitor in the picture.

I have an MSI K9A Platinum AM2 AMD 580X CrossFire ATX AMD Motherboard that is several years old.

Thanks!
 

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crjdriver

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It is visibly bulging in the picture.

With that said, it may or may not be the cause of your current problem. Cold boot issues that go away after the second or third push of the pw button are very often pw supply problems.

What happens is the pw supply capacitors [yes you have them in the pw supply also] lose charge when off. When you first push the ON button the weak/failing unit just does not have enough to boot the system. After you push the ON button a second/third time, the caps have built backup and it finally boots.

You definitely need a new mb OR have that one recapped however you may need a new pw supply as well.
 

crjdriver

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An AM2 system is not worth putting any money into fixing. A better option is to put your money into a modern mb, cpu, ram, and pw supply.
 

valis

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It is visibly bulging in the picture.

With that said, it may or may not be the cause of your current problem. Cold boot issues that go away after the second or third push of the pw button are very often pw supply problems.

What happens is the pw supply capacitors [yes you have them in the pw supply also] lose charge when off. When you first push the ON button the weak/failing unit just does not have enough to boot the system. After you push the ON button a second/third time, the caps have built backup and it finally boots.

You definitely need a new mb OR have that one recapped however you may need a new pw supply as well.
how labor intensive is it for recapping? I mean, I know it's totally beyond my capacity (no pun intended there), but would you or Triple6 try it? If you two wouldn't, that in itself makes quite a statement.
 
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Looking at your pic, I'd say that cap is on it's last leg. With it sitting next to the crystal & driver transistors I guessing it's suppling power and signal to the sata connectors(Blue squares). Secondly if the board is a multi-layer then you're in for a battle to replace the cap if you've never done that kind of work before. The cap will finally blow and you'll be dead in the water, so you best be looking at a new board.
 

crjdriver

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how labor intensive is it for recapping? I mean, I know it's totally beyond my capacity (no pun intended there), but would you or Triple6 try it? If you two wouldn't, that in itself makes quite a statement.
I have replaced a few capacitors [3 out of the 4 mb even worked] however it does require both a reasonable skill level with a soldering gun, a solder suck or desoldering tool, AND a steady hand. The few I did for mostly for a learning experience AND I just ordered kits from bad caps [that makes it much easier than trying to find the correct caps on your own]

With the price of a decent mb reasonably cheap, it will cost close to the same amount to buy the tools and the capacitors than it will to replace the board.
 

crjdriver

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One other thing that helps is that I have severe myopia in my left eye so that [without contacts] it focuses at about 6-12" The perfect spot for close in solder work.
 

managed

Allan
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I've been short-sighted since my early teens but now my 'close to' vision is slowly getting worse.

If you can cut the bulging capacitor down in such a way as to preserve it's 2 leads into the board then you can solder a new capacitor onto the remains of those leads. That avoids any problems with multi-layer boards. You need the same capacitance and voltage replacement capacitor and you also have to get the polarity correct since it's an Electrolytic type.

If you already have soldering equipment the above will only cost the price of the replacement capacitor, around 1 £ or $ !
Whether it fixes the start up issue I don't know.
 

valis

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I have replaced a few capacitors [3 out of the 4 mb even worked] however it does require both a reasonable skill level with a soldering gun, a solder suck or desoldering tool, AND a steady hand. The few I did for mostly for a learning experience AND I just ordered kits from bad caps [that makes it much easier than trying to find the correct caps on your own]

With the price of a decent mb reasonably cheap, it will cost close to the same amount to buy the tools and the capacitors than it will to replace the board.
thanks for that, crj.....I've got a couple spares laying around, and a sautering iron (it's weird; that is the ONLY language stupidity I've seen from Colorado; nobody there has ever heard of a soldering iron), that's been used maybe thrice in 30 thirty years. Plus a kid with an arduino kit. Reckon I got my summer planned.

thanks again, I'll let you know how bad we futz it up. :)


**edit** and now I know why it's called 'sauter'.......never said I was bright....:rolleyes:

https://www.google.com/search?q=solder&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 (click on the pronunciation button)
 

valis

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I've been short-sighted since my early teens but now my 'close to' vision is slowly getting worse.
I don't want to think about that......been an avid reader since waaaay early, and it's been lovely for the past 48 years....do NOT want to think about when my sub 5' vision is gone, but dang if I can't see it approaching.

If you can cut the bulging capacitor down in such a way as to preserve it's 2 leads into the board then you can solder a new capacitor onto the remains of those leads. That avoids any problems with multi-layer boards. You need the same capacitance and voltage replacement capacitor and you also have to get the polarity correct since it's an Electrolytic type.

If you already have soldering equipment the above will only cost the price of the replacement capacitor, around 1 £ or $ !
Whether it fixes the start up issue I don't know.
and last question, and I'll get out of the way; if something does go wrong on the replacement, I believe that the worst that could happen would be the rig not posting.....as opposed to say, bursting into flames, correct?
 

managed

Allan
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It should be perfectly safe, I would happily do it myself.
 

valis

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perfect, thanks, managed.....if you see a small cloud of smoke originating from the south texas area, you know it failed. :)
 
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