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Solved Burnt smell on motherboard and faulty PSU

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by Artyom, Jul 22, 2019.

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  1. Artyom

    Artyom Thread Starter

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    Hello there PC masters. I am in a tough situation with my PC and life in general, and if there is any advice somebody on here has, I would appreciate it wholeheartedly!

    Disclaimer: I want to preface my post by saying that I knew that there were certain things that might have been red flags but at the same time I have had a problem with my molar tooth for a while. I’ve seen the dentist and I have been saving up for a while to afford the treatment, so I did not have spare money for a power supply. I am simply saying I wish I maybe got a new power supply when I started experiencing issues but at the same time I just have a lot on my plate right now. Healthcare is expensive :\ I am looking for any kind of advice and I don’t mind constructive criticism, I just want to fix my PC and I don’t want to over pay and take it somewhere considering my situation.

    Okay now to PC:

    1) I got it from cyberpower in sep 2016. The specs are as follows: OEM INTEL CORE I7-6800K SIX-CORE 3.40GHZ 15MB CACHE L

    240GB SANDISK Z410 SSD 2.5" SATAIII 6.0 GB/s

    3TB HDD 3.5" SATAIII 7200RPM 6.0 GB/s 64MB CACHE

    ADATA 8GB DDR4-2800 XPG

    ASETEK 550LC 120MM WATERCOOLER

    NZXT H440 DESIGNED BY RAZER MID-TOWER CASE NO POWER W

    ASUS X99-E ATX W/RGB 3 WAY CROSSFIRE/SLI USB 3.1 TYPE

    ATNG 800 WATT 80 PLUS POWER SUPPLY

    NVIDIA FOUNDER'S EDITION GTX 1080 8GB GDDR5X

    2) I have cleaned it regularly, replaced the water cooler fan, a few case fans but nothing major ever broke for a while

    3)Suddenly a few months ago I realized I have had too many blue screens recently so I made a new user profile in windows and that actually fixed it.

    4) Something else strange happened, when I shut down my PC it would be stuck in a reboot cycle, I figured it was a BIOS issue or something like that, either way software I figured....

    5) other than mentioned above, I have not had weird things other than occasional issue with booting but they usually went away after I would reset the power.

    The problem: yesterday evening my gf complained about the PC being too bright and I decided to shut it off, I did it through windows normally, let it shut down, and everything was normal. It didn’t get stuck in a loop and I thought that finally it’s not in a loop or anything this time. Weird thing though, a PLED1 was glowing red on the motherboard... But all the fans were off and it was shut down in every other way, I flipped the power switch and figured that in the morning I would be able to just flip it back and be okay.

    This morning I flip the power switch and I try to turn it on, guess what... same red LED.... I flipped the switch to off... turned it on.... same stuff... I reset power again.... this time it powered but the monitor would not come on.. no signal... I turned it off.. went to bestbuy to look at power supplies, person told me to try a different outlet and when I got back home I did. This time it tried to power and suddenly...... I smelt the smell you don’t want to smell.... quickly flipped the power to off and died inside a few times.... This really, really is bad timing for this.... I tried to find the source of the smell, but it seems like it came from the motherboard itself as nothing else smells bad, no capacitors appear blown, but I have not taken the PC apart just yet.... not sure what I should do

    Does anybody have advice on how to move on? Should I test out all the parts? If so, what’s the cheapest route since I don’t have PC master friends near me that I know of at the moment and I don’t want to hinder myself financially more than I already am.... Does anybody think that blindly betting that replacing the power supply and the motherboard together fixes my PC is a good bet?? That would run me about $400...

    I will answer questions and add any details you guys might want
     
  2. crjdriver

    crjdriver Moderator

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    When a low quality pw supply fails, it can fry just about any part or parts in the system; ie motherboard, processor, ram, video card, etc. The only way you are going to find out what part or parts failed is to test each part in a test or bench machine. Since you do not have access to the above, taking the system to a shop [by shop I mean a real shop NOT a best buy or other chain] would be the best option. Most shops will charge you between 1/2hr to 1hr shop labor ie $45 to $90 for the service.
    If you really want to try doing it yourself, start with replacing the pw supply. Do not go with a cheap unit. Running a 1080 and an i7, you need a quality pw supply. Good ie recommended brands; Seasonic, Corsair [AX, HX, or RM models ONLY] Antec [HCG models ONLY]
     
  3. Artyom

    Artyom Thread Starter

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    I am going to buy the Corsair RMx 850W... do you think it would be fine to test the system with that even if the mobo is faulty? Or do I need to go ahead and replace both. Upon close inspection I did not find any burn marks on the mobo....
     
  4. crjdriver

    crjdriver Moderator

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    That pw supply is fine. Connect just atx, aux, and video pw. Hit the ON button and see if the board will POST.
     
  5. Artyom

    Artyom Thread Starter

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    Will the PSU Manual explain to me where the the atx and aux are? :) the video pw is the graphics card right? And does the mobo load in POST automatically in that way?
    Edit: found another PSU for a great deal. I’m thinking I’m going for that one instead
    EVGA - 1000W ATX /EPS 80 Plus Gold Modular Power Supply - Black
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2019
  6. crjdriver

    crjdriver Moderator

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    The atx and aux connectors are the 24pin and 8/12pin connectors. Some high end motherboards use an 8pin plus and additional 4pin connector. Most standard boards use just the 8pin aux.
     

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  7. Artyom

    Artyom Thread Starter

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    Oh okay I know which ones you mean now! And what do you think of the 1000W EVGA?
     
  8. crjdriver

    crjdriver Moderator

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    EVGA does not mfg their own pw supplies. The high end ones are mfg by seasonic and those are very good. The lower end ones I do not know who mfg those. Same thing with corsair; the high end corsairs are mfg by seasonic and the low end ones by CTW.
     
  9. Artyom

    Artyom Thread Starter

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    So you’re saying, it will do fine just like the 850W Corsair but do you think that with that 1000W I would have the power to get a 2080 or something like that in the future as well? It’s a close call they are only $20 difference in price

    Edit: also for the POST of mobo, do I need to google how to do that for my mobo or would it just load that way if I only connect the 3 things you said
     
  10. crjdriver

    crjdriver Moderator

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    POST= power on self test ie what the board does prior to loading an operating system. If you get a display with just atx, aux and video pw connected, the board has completed POST.
    Either pw supply would be fine for a 2080 however I would really concentrate on finding your problem first.
     
  11. Artyom

    Artyom Thread Starter

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    I just tested the system with the new PSU.... it booted but no display, no signal.... what should I do next?
     
  12. crjdriver

    crjdriver Moderator

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    You are going to have to swap out your parts into a bench or test system. Really that is the only way; that OR swap in known good parts into your system.
    If you have another video card, swap in that card for testing. Again you are probably going to spend more money on parts than it would cost to take it to a shop for diagnosis however up to you.
    Do understand that there is a very real possibility that you fried multiple items ie ram, video card, etc.
     
  13. Artyom

    Artyom Thread Starter

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    I will most likely be looking to test my graphics card and ram somewhere but if I can’t do that I will be waiting for a reasonably priced lga2011-v3 socket motherboard online.... do you have any suggestions?
     
  14. crjdriver

    crjdriver Moderator

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    I use asus, asrock, or gigabyte boards in my builds. All board mfg have a lower end or budget line. I [generally] stay away from those. A budget board will have lower quality VRs [voltage regulators] cheaper capacitors, etc. If you intend on gaming and or overclocking, you do not want a budget board.
     
  15. Artyom

    Artyom Thread Starter

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    I ordered the Asus Sabertooth X99 2011-v3 Motherboard TUF Components DDR4 M.2 USB3.1
     
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