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Cannot boot to windows 7

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by Zoss, Apr 30, 2010.

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  1. Zoss

    Zoss Thread Starter

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    Hi, just posting in here since no other section seems to apply and this seems the most relevant.

    Recently, my computer decided not to boot one day, now before this was happening, I was having trouble with my gcard. It tends to sometimes run on full fan speed when I turn the computer on and no signal would come up. Usually flicking the power mains off and on would fix it. This time however, it didn't - I tried to pull the gcard out, and boot to the internal graphics chip (resetting the bios using the jumper). Sometimes this worked if the latter failed.

    So I was successful in booting up and logging in. I proceeded to uninstall the nvidia drivers, then turn the computer off. I couldn't boot again. No post. I've tried resetting the bios again, using the jumper and taking out the battery. Nothing. I get no beeps, no post - just a black screen. If I try to reset the bios and put in my vcard again, it will just jump to 100% fan speed and a black screen, no post.

    System specs:
    MS-7367 MB
    AMD Phenom Quad Core 9500
    Nvidia 9800GTX+ PCI-E 512Mb
    2 Sata hard drives 200gig/1.5TB
    550W PSU

    Help would be nice =)
     
  2. dustyjay

    dustyjay

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    First Name:
    Jay
    What is the Manufacturer and Model number of your Power Supply. Remember Wattage is not as important as the Amperage on the +12Vdc Rail(s).
     
  3. antech

    antech Banned

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    Moderators please consider Moving it to the Hardware Section.
    You will surely get more help there
     
  4. antech

    antech Banned

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    Quick Response,
    Cookiegal.
    I guess it was you.
     
  5. crjdriver

    crjdriver Moderator

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    40,232
    Cold boot problems that go away after restarting are very often pw supply problems. What happens is that the capacitors in the pw supply discharge slowly when OFF. When you switch it ON, there is just not enough pw to pw ON the system. When you restart, the caps have had a chance to pw up and it will now post.

    The first thing to do is to swap in a known good pw supply. DO NOT continue to attempt to pw ON with your current pw supply. A failed/failing pw supply can and often does fry the board, ram, cpu, etc, etc, etc.
     
  6. Zoss

    Zoss Thread Starter

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  7. crjdriver

    crjdriver Moderator

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    The best test is to swap in a known good pw supply.

    I checked the specs and that is a pretty low quality pw supply. It just barely makes the min requirement for a 9800 type card. When you run a quad core cpu and that video card, you are really asking for a problem. The min spec for amp on the 12V rail is 26 and I believe your psu is putting out 27 [if you believe the specs which are very often over inflated]

    As I posted a known good pw supply is worth more than ALL of the psu testers combined.
     
  8. Zoss

    Zoss Thread Starter

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    What would you recommend for a new PSU because I don't have any other ones lying around with 550W+
     
  9. Rich-M

    Rich-M

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    22,445
    Antec, Corsair, Pc Power& Cooling, Thermaltake and Enermax for starters.
     
  10. crjdriver

    crjdriver Moderator

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    The above list is fine. I currently have a FSP 650W unit and it is just about bullet proof; 12V rail does not droop even when running ut3.

    When you evaluate a psu, look at all of the specs; not just a wattage rating. One very important spec is the temp at which the unit was rated. Quality units will be rated @40~50C. Junk ones @25C.
     
  11. Zoss

    Zoss Thread Starter

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    Okay...I was able to boot up, but I turned it on - 100% fan speed as usual, no post etc. But then I flicked the mains off and on really quickly. 0.5 of a second. And then the fan speed returns to normal, reset and I'm able to boot. What..? I guess that means the graphics chip on my MB is faulty and I should replace my PSU asap?
     
  12. crjdriver

    crjdriver Moderator

    Joined:
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    If you want to find the problem, you need to test in a systematic manner. The first step is to swap in a known good pw supply.

    If you want to replace ALL of your hardware, then keep doing what you are doing; ie switching on and off the pw and using your current pw supply.
     
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