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Solved Cub Cadet 1320 Hydro - Removing Mower Deck

Discussion in 'Do It Yourself (Not Computer-Related)' started by cwwozniak, May 25, 2019.

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  1. cwwozniak

    cwwozniak Trusted Advisor Spam Fighter Thread Starter

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    I have a Cub Cadet 1320 Hydro lawn tractor with a model # 331190 38" LT Deck. Any place I can download a manual for this paricular model mower deck?

    I need to replace the belt on the deck that connects the blades. I am trying to figure out the best way to detach the deck from the lawn tractor. I have found a manual for a different version of a 38 inch Cub Cadet deck and it makes it look easy; just retract two spring loaded pins at the rear and pull the tractor forward to release the front. Mine doesn't look anything like it.
     
  2. Drabdr

    Drabdr Moderator

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  3. cwwozniak

    cwwozniak Trusted Advisor Spam Fighter Thread Starter

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    Hi Brad. Thank you for the Cub Cadet site link. I think I might have been there when I bought the lawn tractor last summer. I tried again today.

    I've attached marked up photos of both the deck and tractor's ID tags. I tried both 38" LT DECK and 331190 for the deck model number, along with the 351646 s/n. Both searches came up empty and recommended calling 1-877-428-2349 for further assistance. I may just have to do that on Tuesday. A search for the tractor manual based on the 131232100 model number and 197671 s/n also came up empty.

    The video is for changing the drive belt between the engine and hydrostatic drive. It skips over how to detach the deck from the tractor.

    It looks like the 1320 Hydro tractor and the 38-inch deck have gone through several major design iterations through the years. I get the feeling I have an early design and enough people complained about the deck mounting and it was redesigned for easy on and off mounting. As far as I can tell, I need to remove four cotter pins from four left mechanism brackets and pop the bracket rods out of the deck. Then remove a cotter pin from a hanger rod at the front of the tractor and pull that rod to drop the deck hanger.
     

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  4. cwwozniak

    cwwozniak Trusted Advisor Spam Fighter Thread Starter

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    I got the deck out, cursing the designer of the mounting method the whole time, and replaced both belts. I need to go out and get some hitch pin clips to use instead of cotter pins on the hanger clevis pins. They should make attaching and detaching the deck about 20% easier than using cotter pins.
     
  5. Drabdr

    Drabdr Moderator

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    Agreed. Not to mention it’s been my experience that cotter pins don’t fare well with any stress or vibration.

    Nice work on this. You’re way more patient than I am.
     
  6. cwwozniak

    cwwozniak Trusted Advisor Spam Fighter Thread Starter

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    I called the Cub Cadet support number this Saturday. After going through a phone tree from he** and talking to two support people, I was able to get the correct PDF files of the owner's manuals for the exact models of lawn tractor and mower deck that I have. It didn't help that the model numbers on the nameplates didn't have any dashes and the support database had two or three dashes in the model number. The second person I talked to had to do a few partial searches to find the right documents.

    The manuals did not show a quicker or easier way to attach and detach the deck. A total of 7 clips need to be removed to pull the deck. It did not help me that a previous owner replaced the original hitch pin clips with cotter pins and a couple of bent nails.

    The manuals did not list replacement parts. I may brave calling Cub Cadet support again to see if they have service manuals for the beast.

    In case anyone comes across this post looking for information on replacing the v-belts on this particular model of tractor and deck, the replacement parts list used by parts distributors has the wrong PTO deck belt size listed. The original damaged belt that I removed and the replacement that I purchased (4L610) were too narrow. After about five hours of mowing time, the new belt stretched just enough so that tensioning pulley would cause the outside of the belt to rub against the inside of the belt on each side of the engine's sheave. Smoke quickly ensued. Closer inspection of the sheaves and pulley suggested a wider belt was needed. I purchased a Kevlar reinforced 5L610 (5/8 inch wide x 61.0 inch outside circumference) belt locally. It fit and operated perfectly.
     
  7. Drabdr

    Drabdr Moderator

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    Goodness Chuck! I've already counted about five times that thing would have went to the curb for me. :)

    I wonder if you can even get those clips anymore. Might have to engineer some up.
     
  8. cwwozniak

    cwwozniak Trusted Advisor Spam Fighter Thread Starter

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    I looked at it as more of a challenge at that point to get it working one way or another. I had big rolls of baling wire and duct tape at the ready if things got desperate.

    I found a nice assortment of the clips at my local Harbor Freight store. I just had to figure exactly what they were called.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/150-piece-hitch-clip-assortment-67557.html
     
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