Motherboard stops booting after 2-3 hrs of working

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suteekshna

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Joined
Mar 21, 2009
Messages
5
Hi
I have a ssembbeld desktop computer with following config:-
"i5-2400, 3.10 Ghz
Intel DH67BL M/B
8GB RAM (4GB module of kingston -2nos)
WD - 1TB HDD
Cooler Master 460 W PS
Logitech wireless KDB & Mouse
Cooler master Cabinet
Samsung 18.5" LED
Win7 64 bit"

This PC has been working fine for almost one year , around 3 months back it stopped booting & I got the M/B replaced from Intel. After working for close to 30 days again same problem started & again I got the M/B replaced from Intel.

After this system again started working again & after working for a day again M/B not booting , now I got both the M/B & the CPU replaced from Intel and changed the new power supply also (got the older one checked and was working fine).

Now after getting new M/B & CPU system again worked for a day and started not booting, and boots after 7-8 hrs again.

We got RAM & HDD checked on the other system and are working perfectly ok, I am unable to figure out where exactly is the problem.

Kindly guide me what should I do now.
 
Joined
Mar 18, 2001
Messages
13,954
Cheap power supply. A $35 power supply is what it is. I don't care how many times you change it.
 

dai

Joined
Mar 6, 2003
Messages
11,198
70% efficiency

todays computers require 80+ quality and min 550w

5-7yr warranty if it is a quality built unit
 

crjdriver

Moderator
Joined
Jan 2, 2001
Messages
41,768
While I agree that is a low quality pw supply, have you done any troubleshooting when you encounter the no boot condition?

When the system does not boot, open the case and pull the pw connectors from ALL drives both hd and optical. Disconnect any usb device ie printer, scanner, hub, etc. If you have any add-in cards such as a nic or sound card, remove them. Leave only the video card installed or if using onboard just leave connected. Pw ON and see if the mb will post. If it does, then shutdown and connect devices one at a time until you find the failed part.

As for your pw supply, if you carefully check the specs you will see that it is only a 70% efficiency unit AND the wattage rating is very overstated. It shows two 12V rails each @18amp however the total wattage on the 12V rail is only 324W. This is way below the expected rating of 432W. Using ohms law of VxA=W you would add 18+18=36x12 to get 432W. The unit is only capable of a max current draw of 324W on the combined 12V rails.

In short when you swap parts for troubleshooting, do not use junk parts.
 
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