PC sounds like it turns off

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kalxen

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While I am working, my PC makes a sound like when it about to turn off and then everything stucks for a minute (the streaming music makes a long sound, the programs stop working) and then everything comes back to normal.
I have already formatted it because I thought that it was a virus but the problem remains. :eek:

What should I do? :confused:
 
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This will most likely be a hardware problem so please follow the two tests below. Also check inside the PC and make sure it is all free from dust using a can of compressed air (availalbe from any computer store). Pay particular attention to the CPU heat sink and the heatsink on your graphics card if you have one. Take the graphics card out and clean the slot with the can of air and clean the contacts on the card with a soft pencil eraser and reseat it.

Preliminary checks
You should first check the model of RAM stick that you have on the manufacturers site for the recommended voltage setting and then make sure it is set correctly in the PC's Bios. An incorrect voltage setting may be the reason for your problems so test the PC's performance again if the voltage was incorrect.
Errors can also be caused by dirty contacts, mismatched sticks or using them in the wrong slots. Check all sticks are the same make and specification, check the motherboard manual for the correct slots to use. Remove all the sticks and clean the contacts with a soft pencil eraser and blow out the slots with a can of compressed air.
Download Memtest86+ from here
When the download is complete right click the file and select Extract Here and burn the image to a CD.
In windows 7 right click the extracted file, select Open With, then select Windows Disc Image Burning Tool then follow the prompts. For all other versions of windows (if you do not have an ISO burner) download this free software. ImgBurn
Install the program and start the application. Select the top left hand option to burn image file to disk and then on the next window click on the small yellow folder icon and browse to the ISO file you have downloaded. Then click on the two grey discs with the arrow in between (bottom left) and leave it to complete the operation.
Testing
Boot the PC into the Bios setup and set the CD/DVD drive to 1st in the boot sequence. Insert the disk in the drive then reboot and the disc will load into dos. Leave the test to run through at least 8 cycles or until it is showing some errors. If errors show in the test, remove all but one of your RAM sticks and repeat the test on each stick until you find the one that is faulty. This is a long slow test and should ideally be run overnight.
The memtest will not be 100% accurate but should easily detect any major faults.
IMPORTANT
Always disconnect your PC from the mains supply when removing Ram sticks and earth your hands to discharge any static electricity to avoid damage to sensitive components. If performing this test on a laptop PC you should also remove the battery before removing or replacing the RAM sticks.
Identify the make of your hard drive and then use one of the links below to get the manufacturer's diagnostics for ISO (CD) not the one for Windows.
When the download is complete right click the file and select Extract Here and burn the image to a CD.
In Windows 7 right click the extracted file, select Open With, then select Windows Disc Image Burning Tool then follow the prompts. For all other versions of windows (if you do not have an ISO burner) download this free software. ImgBurn
Install the program and start the application. Select the top left hand option to burn image file to disk and then on the next window click on the small yellow folder icon and browse to the file you have downloaded from the links below. Then click on the two grey discs with the arrow in between (bottom left) and leave it to complete the operation.
Boot the PC into the Bios setup and set the CD/DVD drive to 1st in the boot sequence. Insert the disk in the drive then reboot and the disc will load into dos.
Excelstore
Hitachi/IBM
Samsung
Seagate, Maxtor & Quantum
Western Digital
Toshiba/Fujitsu
If you have a Toshiba/Fujitsu hard drive I would suggest the use of the diagnostics from the Seagate link as this will work on all makes of drive and on any OS.
 

kalxen

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@ Mark1956: Thank you for your answer. I will let you know asap.
 

kalxen

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Oct 29, 2005
Messages
184
@ Mark1956: I run all the tests that you suggested but the problem still remains. :(

I forgot to mention before (my mistake) that apart from the "stuck time", sometimes my mouse pointer is moving slower.
I am thinking that I will probably need to buy a better power supply. Maybe this is the reason I am having this problem.

I am using Adobe Master Collection CS3 and whenever I use Photoshop things are getting worse. :eek:

What do you think?
 
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Both of the tests were to do a diagnostic, neither will repair anything, what was the results for the Memtest and the hard drive test.

Did you run a full 8 passes with the mem test?
Did you do an extended hard drive test?
Did you check the voltage setting for your memory, clean and reseat the sticks?
 

kalxen

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Oct 29, 2005
Messages
184
I downloaded Memtest86+ and I am sending you a picture that I took with my mobile, during the memory tests.

Then I installed "Data Lifeguard Diagnostic for Windows" for my Western Digital HDD that I downloaded from the link of the manufacturer's site. No errors where found.

I do not how to check the voltage setting for my memory but I cleaned them and reseated the sticks.

:(
 

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When you ran memtest, in the line that goes across the middle of the page (in your photo), what number was displayed under Pass, as per my instructions this needs to reach at least 8 for a conclusive test.

Leave the test to run through at least 8 cycles or until it is showing some errors
As my instructions indicate, this is a long slow test and should ideally be run overnight.

At the beginning of my instructions for the hard drive diagnostics it says "get the manufacturer's diagnostics for ISO (CD) not the one for Windows". The one for windows is ok but the one for CD is far more accurate as it allows the diagnostics to test the drive while it is out of use by Windows. The Windows version you used is for runing on a slave or external drive.

Go here and follow the instructions so I can see your system details, paste then into your next post. Please also add what make and power (wattage) your PSU is.

Your RAM voltage setting will be somewhere in the Bios, Bios layouts vary considerably so it is difficult to guide you. It is unlikely it is set incorrectly but it has been known. Look for something like "Power Settings"
 

kalxen

Thread Starter
Joined
Oct 29, 2005
Messages
184
Before doing all the things that you asked me to, I tried to copy/paste a file and then I got the message "cyclic redundancy check error" and my PC stuck completely and made the same sound.

So I asked a PC technician and he told me that my HDD had a bad spot. He adviced me to replace it which I did and now (for the moment) everything is ok. The sound I was hearing before it was from the HDD. Luckily I did not lose any files.

Thank you one more time for your help.
 
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Glad to hear you have it all working again.

If there was a bad spot, usually called a bad sector or block, the hard drive diagnostics should have picked that up. Sometimes this can be caused by corrupted data which can be cleared by running the Windows Disk Check routine so that old drive may actually be ok.

If you hook the old drive up as a slave and assign it a drive letter you can then run the Disk Check on it. Click on Start and type cmd into the Run box, hit Enter and then type chkdsk D: /r at the command prompt. (Include the spaces in the command and replace the D with whatever drive letter is assigned to the old drive). Hit enter and it should run and display on screen what it finds.
 

kalxen

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Joined
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Messages
184
There is no need to run all these tests. I installed a fresh new copy of Windows in my new HDD and everything is ok again.

I had already run the Disk Check on my old HDD and there were errors and this is why I decided to replace it.
 
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Ok, that's good, just wanted to be sure you weren't discarding a drive that was still in working order.
 
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