1. Computer problem? Tech Support Guy is completely free -- paid for by advertisers and donations. Click here to join today! If you're new to Tech Support Guy, we highly recommend that you visit our Guide for New Members.

POWER SUPPLY FROM HELL! I cannot get my custom built PC to power on! HELP!

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by logansosa, Jun 15, 2007.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
Advertisement
  1. logansosa

    logansosa Thread Starter

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2004
    Messages:
    46
    Hi forum and pc gurus,

    My problem is specified down to my PSU, at least I think so. (550W Logisys PSU - maybe the quality has something to do with it, I paid $19 for it from NEW EGG). I have A Gigabyte GA-965P-DS3 Motherboard, a Intel Core 2 DUO Conroe 2.13GHz processor with heatsink and Fan, Sapphire ATI X1950 Pro, 2 GIGS of WINTEC DDR2 PC 6400 (800) RAM, 1 SATA Maxtor 320 GIG HD, 1 2.5 inch SATA 160Gig HD, and two DVD Burner Optical Drives (both IDE).

    I have it hooked up like this, two Optical Drives connected to 1 IDE connector/cable which is hooked into the IDE input on the motherboard, both are set to slave. Two CD outs (connected one to each Optical Drives) to one CD input on the motherboard. Both HD's are connected to SATA inputs on the motherboard, one is set for master, one is set for slave (I heard that it did not matter but wanted to state that anyway), then my ATI RADEON X1950 is hooked directly into my only PCI Xpress 16 slot. The power connectors are then all hooked into their respective inputs on the drives and Video Card. ANd last but not least, all the Power button and LED connectors are hooked into their input on the motherboard, wich I set up exactly as the motherboard diagrams and directions directed. I turned the switch on the PSU to on and I only got a faint mouse like squeek, then nothing, not even the fan. So I figured it was DOA, so I had newegg send me another. I got it today, installed it, hooked all the power connectors to the hardware, then popped the switch to on, nothing again, and the same little squeeky mouse like noise. I have no idea what went wrong, and this is my first custom built computer for me, so any help would be great. In relation, I did not wear a ESD protective wristband, but I did constantly touch metal to keep myself grounded, but I couldnt rule out ESD to the motherboard, I hope not, but it is a possibility. AND what is the possibility that both PSUs were DOA, and what is the possibility that 550W is not enough to power my entire system. THANKS GUYS FOR ANY HELP IN ADVANCE. Oh, and yeah, I have it set to 110V,
     
  2. win2kpro

    win2kpro

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2005
    Messages:
    11,670
    a $19 power supply just doesn't cut it. Get yourself a QUALITY 600+ watt unit.
     
  3. brite750

    brite750

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2002
    Messages:
    13,404
    Logisys is a maker of very cheap pc parts i wouldnt even plug it in again
     
  4. logansosa

    logansosa Thread Starter

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2004
    Messages:
    46
    How much wattage do you think I need with that configuration, would over 600 do? And I know that this PSU was very cheap but I expected to at least run, what are the chances that I would receive two DOA's? And I am looking to only spend about $60, what brand should I go towards for a good amount of wattage, and economy at the same time?
     
  5. Clumbsy_Mage

    Clumbsy_Mage

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2004
    Messages:
    834
    Erm, it's not really a question of the Watt rating, you can quite happily run that setup with a 500W PSU, probably 400W. It's more a question of how much voltage it's supplying to each individual rail.

    Manufacturers such as FSP, Enermax and Thermaltake are all reputable companies offering power supply units that cost alot more than $19 but obviously perform a damn sight better.
     
  6. win2kpro

    win2kpro

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2005
    Messages:
    11,670
    I'll forget the PSU issue for a moment, but this won't work. Either hook the optical drive at the end of the cable jumpered as MASTER and the next optical drive jumpered as SLAVE, or, jumper both drives as CABLE SELECT. If you are going to use CABLE SELECT you need to make sure your IDE cables are 40/80 cables not 40/40 cables.
     
  7. win2kpro

    win2kpro

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2005
    Messages:
    11,670
  8. logansosa

    logansosa Thread Starter

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2004
    Messages:
    46
    Ok, how can I tell of they are 40/80 or 40/40
     
  9. logansosa

    logansosa Thread Starter

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2004
    Messages:
    46
    Also, in relation to the amps, again I am new to building computers, so how can I tell what volts and amps are being distributed on the rails?
     
  10. logansosa

    logansosa Thread Starter

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2004
    Messages:
    46
  11. Clumbsy_Mage

    Clumbsy_Mage

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2004
    Messages:
    834
    You don't really need to worry about it, you can be sure if you're buying from a reputable manufacturer (those I mentioned earlier) that they'll provide enough juice to your componants.

    Once I bought a tacky no name PSU, built an office machine with it. I turned it off after heavy use, bang, dead.
     
  12. bigbear

    bigbear

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2004
    Messages:
    4,719
    If they came with the motherboard they should be fine
     
  13. win2kpro

    win2kpro

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2005
    Messages:
    11,670
    The connectors are the same. The 40/40 is 40 pin 40 conductors, the 40/80 is 40 pin 80 conductors.

    Today the manufacturers should ship 40/80 IDE cables.

    Here is a comparison pic.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Compiler

    Compiler

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2006
    Messages:
    5,855
    $19 PSU... first hint. Hence, you can't go by "500watt" or "600watt" as such companies use funny-math to say such PSUs are "500watt" when actual max load is about 250watts!

    A decent PSU will cost you AT LEAST $40... but good ones are typically $70~125... $200+ are overkill Overclocker PSUs.

    This is the CHEAPEST I would go with: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153023
     
  15. win2kpro

    win2kpro

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2005
    Messages:
    11,670
    Over near your processor you should see a white 4 pin connector. Do you have the 4 pin connector from the power supply plugged into that connector? The connector you should have plugged in has 2 yellow wires and 2 black wires.
     
  16. Sponsor

As Seen On
As Seen On...

Welcome to Tech Support Guy!

Are you looking for the solution to your computer problem? Join our site today to ask your question. This site is completely free -- paid for by advertisers and donations.

If you're not already familiar with forums, watch our Welcome Guide to get started.

Join over 733,556 other people just like you!

Loading...
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Short URL to this thread: https://techguy.org/584624

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice