Solved: cpu or motherboard?

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hamdanglin

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Hello,
I am new to this site so if this is a repost I apologize, I am using my phone to browse and don't want to FC. My problem is....my pc won't post, when I turn my pc on it says there is no video signal. I have been to HP's site and ruled out the monitor. I have unplugged all peripherals...nothing. I checked all power and SATA connections...nothing. I have disconnected the HDDs...nothing. I have reseated and rotated all RAM chips...nothing. I purchased a new video card and tried it again...nothing. The CPU doesn't throw any heat at all. It's an HP media center m8400f, 2.2g phenom x4 3g ddr2 and some sort of ASUS video card. I am not exactly sure what motherboard it has...it says HT2000 on it if that helps. Please let me know if you need anymore information. It seems that my problem is either the motherboard or the CPU. My question is...how can you tell if my culprit is one or the other or both. Or maybe there is something else I should try? I have tried to reset the BIOS blindly during startup and also tried blindly defaulting the power savings in startup but who knows if I had the right instructions although they were from the HP site. Oh yeah OS is Vista. At this point I would pound sand up my @$$ if I thought it would help as I refuse to pay anyone to tell me what I am assuming is wrong. But I don't know how to diagnose one from the other. I am new to this so I have just been eliminating what I think is the most logical suspect and working back from there. It is very possible that I am overlooking something but when the processor would function better as an ice cube I think that I am close?
Thanks to anyone in advance for your input/critique. Nate
 

hamdanglin

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Is there any other way to verify it is without swapping? All the lights and fans work...the optical drive opens/closes and spins a dvd...I don't have the ability to perform any kind of bench test...the led on the psu remains lit and doesn't flicker...not that don't believe you, I just want the most proof I can get before I drop cash on any new parts as it is the only pc that I have and don't have any spare parts to try...
Thanks!
 

hamdanglin

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I tried everything suggested that "lkazazzi" should try in a previous thread, I see you commented on that thread also...I located some exact replacement parts on the net and for the cash I wiuld spend to get direct replacements I would be better off getting an amd phenom II x6 1055t with the appropriate motherboard and If I did do that I would need a larger power supply (mines only 300w) so maybe I will get a larger PSU and go from there...I intend to keep expand this systrm anyways...any thoughts?
 

hamdanglin

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Phone, Droid Eris...pc has been down for several months and I am finally sick off staring at it
 

hamdanglin

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Maybe I misunderstood your question...I used the aforementioned pc for two years and it crapped out about six months ago.
 

hamdanglin

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I checked my 12, 5, & 3.3 rails with the board plugged in and turned on, obviously I can only check when attempting to post. All are within about 2%...now what...? Like I asked before, how can I determine whether its my CPU OR the mobo? Thanks for looking!
 

crjdriver

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I checked my 12, 5, & 3.3 rails with the board plugged in and turned on, obviously I can only check when attempting to post. All are within about 2%...now what...? Like I asked before, how can I determine whether its my CPU OR the mobo? Thanks for looking!
You still have not ruled out the pw supply. Since this is pretty easy and quick to test, do that first. Note you do not even have to pull out your old pw supply. Just connect the atx and aux atx pw connectors to the board and pw ON. You do not have to have your hard drives pw to check for post.
 

hamdanglin

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I did that already, that is the current state it is in right now, I tried rotating all sticks in all the slot individually...nothing. ever since it wouldn't post the CPU won't throw heat....as far as the clearing and resting the BIOS I did pull the battery beforehand....nothing. I only tried to do that when nothing else worked. And since the processor won't even surpass room temperature it would lead me to think that attempt was failed but who knows...can I eliminate CPU or motherboard....is it possible?
 

hamdanglin

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I apologize if I am coming off brief and snippy but I am still posting on my Droid and well...yeah it sux :)
 

crjdriver

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OK, I am not understanding. Did you or did you not swap in a known good pw supply?
 

hamdanglin

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No, but what I am not understanding is why I would have to "swap" in power supply. I am not as computer savvy as some of you are but I am an electrician by trade and know a few things about electronics. I know that before I "swap" devices that they can be methodically proven to function or not. I am not saying I would be able to diagnose a motherboard or CPU malfunction and that is the basis of my thread. I have verified all that I possibly can without cutting wires to record amp draws without using an amp clamp and even if I did I would have to know the precise draw of each circuit. If I were to buy a power supply tester it would only show me voltage anyhow which I concluded is within about 1.5% on 12vdc, less than 1% on 5vdc, and miniscule for 3.3vdc <.03vdc. -12.02vdc on my blue wire. So in conclusion 12 volts is 12 volts...5vdc and so on. I checked each line at initialization and fluctuations were noticed at one hundredths of one volt so all potential is there. All within 4-5% of the required stability specs for my components. So I can't imagine where any voltage would disappear!?! I understand that a crippled power supply can do some very strange things but if the potential is there it HAS to initiate. It can't send power and stop it anywhere. The only thing preventing from power from reaching the common is a short, a bad ground, or an open circuit (period). I don't intend any of what I said to be condescending towards anyone, I know I am new here but I intend to hang around and offer what little knowledge I can share. I work around a LOT of guys that don't take a moment to DIAGNOSE a failure. They represent a majority of people in my trade. The only thing they know how to do is "swap" parts, they are not technicians in any sense of the word. Don't get me wrong, a majority of the time they can get something to work again sooner than I can but for the time they think they are saving they smoking boards, modules, motors, frequency drives and on and on. That's great if you can afford to do so but with a mortgage and family in this economy I can't. The only constant is that I retain the learning curve. I haveseen a guy barbecue an $8000 board before because he didn't mimic the dip switches from the original, walk back to the crib, got another one and smoked It too, all the while it had a wire beyond that board had been cut which he didn't bother to check. I am no rocket scientist but I do like to learn how things work and why things don't. I don't wish to try and define anyone but I am 32, have a high school diploma, versus 21-22 year olds with a BA in electrical engineering that carry on in the manner mentioned above and more and more are still coming. I have never taken apart a PC before and am not privvy to BIOS, wiping HDD's, installing Windows or drivers, etc; but I am willing to learn. So I will ask once again but rephrase it a touch, I would like to know if anyone would know how to verify whether or not a CPU or a motherboard functions properly, so what are some things I can verify to prove either one functions or not. I eventually would like to expand/modify this PC, but for right now I just want to see if I can get it to work again since if I had to upgrade now I would have to start with a larger power supply necessary to fuel an X6 and board, since I have ddr3 RAM I would need ddr3 stick for that board and so on. If its CPU, okay, if its a motherboard, alright...if it is both, and so outdated, I might as well start over trying to build a new rig using my existing hdds, reader and tray. I appreciate any advice anyone has to offer
 

crjdriver

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First of all, when you test a pw supply under a no load condition it means next to nothing. That is why you either use a tester like I linked to [however even those are not infallible] OR you swap in a known good unit to test. Much better method of testing.

You may in fact have a failed board or cpu however you will never find out unless you test in a systematic manner. You could swap in a known good board however that takes longer. Do the easiest swap first and if that does not work, then go to the harder one.

From the symptoms you posted, I would suspect in the following order;
1 Failed pw supply
2 Failed mb
3 Last would be a failed cpu. They are actually pretty hard to hurt unless you overvolt them OR physically damage them when installing.
 
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