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SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION and CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED BSOD

Discussion in 'Windows 10' started by ErvinBoyes, Jan 26, 2019.

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  1. ErvinBoyes

    ErvinBoyes Thread Starter

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    Long story short: I got a blue screen saying SYSTEM_SERVICE _EXCEPTION when starting up my PC, and after it start it up properly, The desktop was black and the toolbar was blinking.

    However, I feel like some context could help to solve these issues. There's quite a lot so I apologize if I waffle on a bit.

    So, recently, I'd had some major issues installing windows to my PC; I couldn't get it to install onto the SSD that I wanted. As soon as the PC would restart after the USB phase of the installation, it would come up with an error message, saying that I needed to restart the installation. I was initially trying to install windows 8.1 but I then bought a key for windows 10 to see if that would change anything. I could install both windows 10 and 8.1 successfully onto my other drives, but neither were stable, as the windows taskbar and start menu would freeze in windows 8.1, but not any 'non windows' elements such as software I had downloaded. On windows 10 it would run slow and get bluescreens such as SYSTEM_SERVICE _EXCEPTION, as well as CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED. Thinking it was something to do with drivers, I went and made sure they were all up to date. I ran chkdsk on all of my drives, including the USB I used for installation, to find nothing wrong. Anyways, I managed to get windows onto my preferred SSD by updating my BIOS, which also fixed another issue I was having, where my PC would not restart properly. However, windows was still running slow again, even after updating the BIOS e.g. discord lagging and firefox freezing, and I got the SYSTEM_SERVICE _EXCEPTION bluescreen. After that, a black desktop with a blinking toolbar appeared after rebooting. I'm currently re installing windows again, as I had no restore point to go back to. I did also make sure that all the latest firmware for my drives was installed.

    Perhaps its worth noting that the reason I wanted a fresh install of windows in the first place was that Far Cry 5 was freezing for a few seconds every time an on screen message popped up, or I tried to open a menu. Re installing windows actually made it even worse, as now it was straight up crashing randomly, often blue screening and showing the system service exception message. I haven't had a chance to test if it is working now, but Skyrim was also freezing randomly too, which was another reason for my re installation.

    In terms of my temperatures, they are all fine. I highly doubt that there is anything wrong with my memory as I just replaced it not long ago. I'm beginning to think maybe its something to do with my motherboard, because at this point I just have no idea why these issues just happen randomly. I have spare GPUs to test with to see if thats the issue, but I doubt that my GPU has anything to do with it. I'm guessing if my CPU was broken then my PC just wouldn't boot. I did replace my CPU cooler recently due to high temperatures, which did nothing to help my performance. I've checked my hard drives for errors and there were none. My power supply is actually probably overkill in terms of wattage for my current system. The only thing I could think of is my motherboard, but I don't know how to diagnose issues with it.

    It just seems like I have some kind of underlying issue that's just been around for ages, because I seem to just have problem after problem. For example, I had a problem a while ago with a bluescreen that said irql_not_less_or_equal, which doesn't cause any problems now, but it would only happen when I had a specific SSD installed. The SSD had no errors when I ran chkdsk, and still doesn't today. As well as this, I've had problems with a hard drive just disappearing from the list under 'this pc' randomly, which I never managed to fix and just assumed it was dead, despite having it for probably less than a year. I recently had problems with stuttering games again, and a BSOD with the message PAGE FAULT IN NONPAGED AREA, which led me to believe there was something wrong with my RAM, yet after replacing it I'm still having similar issues. I don't know if these issues have any correlation to my problems now but I felt like they were worth noting anyway. Any help is appreciated.

    Specs
    GPU: MSI GTX 970
    CPU: I7 4790K @ 4.0GHZ, COOLED BY A DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX 400
    RAM: 2x 8GB PATRIOT VIPER RAM 1600MHZ
    STORAGE: (OS) 120GB KINGSTON SSD, WD BLUE 2TB HDD, 275GB CRUCIAL SSD
    MOTHERBOARD: MSI Z87-G45
    PSU: CORSAIR MX750M
    MONITOR: LG 34 INCH 2560x1080 21:9 MONITOR
    FANS: 4 CORSAIR CASE FANS
    CASE: CORSAIR 230t
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2019
  2. Macboatmaster

    Macboatmaster Trusted Advisor Spam Fighter

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    Your post is extremely difficult to read, in the main block of text, there is no paragraphs it is a somewhat overwhelming wall of text.
    However think I have the basics of the situation.

    Going back briefly to your other topic, which appeared after a BIOS update to result in the successful install of 10. On that topic you said
    There is no need to use RUFUS and you certainly should not use the Windows 7 media creation tool to install Windows 10.
    Download 10 from here following the directions for create installation media
    https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10

    The tool will create your USB - select correct language and bit version - in your case 64bit.

    Going back again to your previous topic you need to configure UEFI in your firmware
    and AHCI mode for SATA as in 3-8 of your motherboard manual.
    DO NOT try and change this after the install, otherwise Windows will not load

    [AHCI Mode] Specify the AHCI mode for SATA storage devices. - that is actually the default mode, but if you changed it to IDE you need to change it back before the install

    DISCONNECT the two drives to which Windows is NOT going to be installed

    If on boot from the USB made as above on boot options menu you have two listings for the USB - one naming just the USB and the other for the USB proceeded by or including UEFI - you want the UEFI option

    DO NOT use diskpart - use the installation GUI for Windows to delete all partitions
    So you are then going to install to the total unallocated space on the 120GB drive
    The partitions for the UEFI install of 10 will be automatically created and you follow the procedure as here
    - under the section UEFI install

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/1950-clean-install-windows-10-a.html
    PLEASE READ all the proceeding sections but follow section 13 for your install

    IF ONE of the partitions will not delete using the GUI of the install post back and I will provide an alternative method.

    DO NOT at this stage install any software, you need to test the system with a base install of Windows 10
    However do run updates.
    DO NOT install any third party anti virus, run with the included Windows Defender.

    It is ONLY by following this procedure that we stand any reasonable chance of sorting your problem out
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2019
  3. ErvinBoyes

    ErvinBoyes Thread Starter

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    Sorry for the confusion, I was in a bit of a rush. I've tried rephrasing some things and splitting it into paragraphs. In short, the problem now is no longer the issue from the previous thread I had started, as windows installs perfectly normally now. The problem is that it is just so unstable, and I'm getting the bluescreens that I referred to in this thread. I was talking about my previous issue just in case it had any correlation with my current issue.

    I got another bluescreen just before when testing Far Cry again, this time with a different error message: kernel_security_check_failure. I ran the sfc/scannow utility in cmd and there didn't seem to be any problems, and I also ran the windows memory test: no problems. In addition, I ran the Driver Verifier, but I'm not sure it even did anything.

    Now I've had to reinstall windows AGAIN, because I got the black desktop. However, the desktop did eventually load, but because I tried switching to IDE mode afterwards, I think that messed everything up, because it brings up the windows repair screen, with the options of "troubleshoot, boot from cd/dvd, continue to windows" etc. Every time I restarted the same would happen, regardless of my PC being in IDE or AHCI mode, and regardless of the option I picked.
     
  4. Macboatmaster

    Macboatmaster Trusted Advisor Spam Fighter

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    When you reply please type in the box that appears, when you return to the topic
    Please do not reply by clicking reply on my post, that as you can see, quotes back all my post.

    I recommend you follow the procedure I outlined.
    If you have installed windows in legacy mode, you are going the wrong way. Windows 10 64 bit on that computer needs to be installed UEFI
    As I said do NOT try and change SATA mode after an install It NEVER works
     
  5. ErvinBoyes

    ErvinBoyes Thread Starter

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    I've already done exactly as you said
     
  6. Macboatmaster

    Macboatmaster Trusted Advisor Spam Fighter

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    Do you mean that YOU have CLEAN installed Windows 10 from a newly made USB using the link I sent you and without ANY other apps on that drive and with the OTHER two drives disconnected you still get a crash
     
  7. ErvinBoyes

    ErvinBoyes Thread Starter

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    Well I can't possibly say yet, because the crash would only happen after using the PC for a while or running Far Cry. But yes I have a clean installation of windows 10 running right now, with no third party software, just no crash yet
     
  8. Macboatmaster

    Macboatmaster Trusted Advisor Spam Fighter

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  9. ErvinBoyes

    ErvinBoyes Thread Starter

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    I did still use rufus though, as every tutorial I found said to use rufus to create a bootable USB, so I don't know how to do it any other way. I hope that doesn't matter much
     
  10. Macboatmaster

    Macboatmaster Trusted Advisor Spam Fighter

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    It matters VERY much if you have not used RUFUS correctly as if you have used it wrongly there is every chance we are in legacy mode
    Do you know if you are
    Check System information it will tell you on system summary
    OR check disk management
    IF you have any doubt at all as to how you installed

    If you wish to continue with my help PLEASE do as I ask, whilst of course at the same time, you may query anything you wish
     
  11. Macboatmaster

    Macboatmaster Trusted Advisor Spam Fighter

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    Please note offline for evening meal back about 2030 hrs UK time now 1944
     
  12. ErvinBoyes

    ErvinBoyes Thread Starter

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    Okay so it was in UEFI mode by the looks of things. Sorry if I'm being a little frustrating to deal with, I don't mean to be.

    Anyway, is there any guides or anything you could send of how to make a bootable legacy USB using this iso properly? I've looked at a few guides but they're telling me to use software to create a bootable usb, and I don't know if theres a specific one I should use, or if I should be using one at all.
     
  13. ErvinBoyes

    ErvinBoyes Thread Starter

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    I got the windows 10 media creation tool for the edition of windows I was installing, should I use that instead of the ISO?
     
  14. Macboatmaster

    Macboatmaster Trusted Advisor Spam Fighter

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    SORRY I AM A little later than I said
    Re this
    You are not, we will get it sorted.

    Why do you want to make a legacy usb
    we are installing UEFI mode

    RUFUS is OK but if used incorrectly can end up making a legacy install where as the one from Microsoft on the USB makes both and it is how the computer boots that determines which is used.

    If you refer back to the install instructions
    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/1950-clean-install-windows-10-a.html
    on section 13 second image down on a UEFI install you would have those partitions and on disk management you would see them

    Also on system information it would list UEFI
    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/85195-check-if-windows-10-using-uefi-legacy-bios.html

    The other thing is I notice you say you bought a Windows 10 key
    There was no need to do this as you could have installed it for free from the 8.1 OS
    Where was they key from and did you actually use it

    The reason I ask is that keys on ebay and the like that are unbelievably cheap are often either already used VLK keys that will undoubtedly be blocked by Microsoft OR
    OEM keys that may well not match your BIOS table and hardware and may then cause problems when checked by the Microsoft update servers.
    This is so even if Windows activated on this install with the purchased key
     
  15. ErvinBoyes

    ErvinBoyes Thread Starter

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    Yeah it was definitely in UEFI mode then, thats where I checked it. I don't really know what I meant by the making the USB legacy lol, it doesn't matter anyways, as I've made the USB through the windows media creation tool. I got the key from some site called "gamivo", its one of those game key sites, and it does seem to work actually, but just to make sure it didn't cause any errors with the installation, I just skipped the step where it asks for you key. I was planning on switching from windows 8.1 anyway because there were games that I couldn't play on 8.1 such as Forza Horizon.

    So, I've installed a fresh copy of windows now using the windows media creation tool, following your instructions. However, even though my bios is set to UEFI+LEGACY mode (there is no individual legacy mode in the options), it still says UEFI in the system information.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2019
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